Are Old Vine California Zinfandels Better?

Jerry Feitelson, founder and gang leader of the Carmel Valley Wine Club, organized its 344^th blind tasting in June 2025, which “tried to test the hypothesis that California Zinfandel wines made from Old (>35 years) vs. Young (<25 years) vines produce wines with distinguishable characteristics.  A recent article from Wine Searcher claimed that, while there’s always room for debate, studies and anecdotal evidence suggest that wines made from grapes sourced from old California Zinfandel vines make tastier wines.”

A quick search of recent coverage of Zinfandel in the wine media and among noted wine critics revealed a recurring theme: older vines yielded less fruit, which concentrated the elements and resulted in more intensely flavored wines. The different reports cited tastings of wines from vines exceeding 100 years in age, mainly in Lodi and Amador Counties. However, the highest ratings tended to be for wines from younger vineyards in Napa, Sonoma, and Paso Robles.

“Unfortunately, our experiment was poorly controlled since the vintages within each category varied by 4 to 6 years, so the effects of bottle aging confounded a clear interpretation of the effects of old vs. young vines,” Jerry, a scientist, wrote in sending the tally.  “In addition, the vineyards also used different germplasm and were located in many different regions in California, with varying soil, weather, and vinification practices.”

The 32 tasters voted for first place (5 points), second place (3 points), and third place (1 point). Here are my notes and scores on the wines, listed in order of tasting, along with the total group scores and ranking for each wine.

• Paso Robles ($69) 2017 J. Dusi Zinfandel Paper Street Vineyard. Mid-dark garnet, rim variation, viscous (15.3 Alc.); berries, red fruit, prune nose; mid acids; mid tannins, softening; hot red fruit finish. 16-16.5/90-91 (67 points, 1^st).
• Amador County, Calif. ($44) 2019 Vino Noceto Zinfandel OGP Grandpère Vineyard. Light-mid ruby, rim variation, amber edges; old wine nose, leaves, earthy, red fruit; low-mid acids; mid tannins; semi-long balanced red fruit finish. 16.5/91 (24 points, 6^th– 7^th).
• Oak Knoll, Napa ($36) 2022 Robert Biale Zinfandel Black Chicken. Light garnet, rim variation, viscous (14.8 alc.); red fruit, light oak, floral, bramble nose; mid acids; mid-full tannins; balanced, semi-long, tasty red fruit finish. 17/92 (23 points, 6^th– 7^th).
• Sonoma ($40) 2023 Seghesio Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel. Mid-dark garnet, viscous (15.0 alc.); ripe grape, brambles, young fruit nose; mid acids; mid-full tannins; long hot berry finish. 16/90 (32 points, 4^th).
• Mendocino County ($36) 2019 Martha Stoumen Young Vines Long Élevage Venturi Vineyard. Light-mid ruby, rim variation, faded edges (12.5 alc.); bad old nose, leaves, barnyard; low-mid acids, tannins; thin, sour, bad red fruit finish. 13/79 (3 points, 8^th).
• Value California blend ($17) 2022 Joel Gott Zinfandel California. Mid-dark garnet, pink edges, viscous (14.4 alc.); ripe grape, mint, oak nose; low-mid acids; mid-full tannins; long, hot, red fruit finish. 16/90 (55 points, 2^nd).
• Adelaide, Paso Robles ($50) 2022 Peachy Canyon Zinfandel Bailey. Mid ruby, rim variation, viscous (16.0 alc.); old wood, brambles, red fruit nose; low-mid acids; mid tannins; full alcohol; long hot red fruit finish. 16.5/91 (29 points, 5^th).
• California blend ($27) 2023 Turley Zinfandel Juvenile. Mid-garnet, rim variation, pink edges, viscous (15.2 alc.); red fruit, young wood, ripe grape, red fruit nose; low-mid acids; mid tannins; balanced, hot, red fruit finish. 16.5/91 (46 points, 3^rd).

Zinfandel Lineup