Making the Case for Merlot; Quality Rising Worldwide

Merlot is a versatile and widely planted red wine grape that is popular worldwide, either on its own or as an essential component in blended wines.

The rising quality is evident from the recent Global Master Merlot Awards. A panel of Masters of Wine, Master Sommeliers, and other experts judged the wines blind in the competition in the United Kingdom. The judges noted the depth and breadth of fine Merlot wines and blends available at every price level and from a dozen countries (the Masters and Gold winners are listed below; click the link to see Silver and Bronze).

At some 660,000 acres, Merlot is second to Cabernet Sauvignon in worldwide plantings (840,000 acres). Its sales and reputation have mostly rebounded in the U.S. from declining sales following the movie Sideways, in which the protagonist proclaims his disdain for Merlot and his love for Pinot Noir (No. 9 globally, at 285,00 acres). Merlot outsells Pinot Noir by more than two-to-one in the U.S.

For background, the leading countries for Merlot are:

France – The No. 1 grape in Bordeaux, especially on the Right Bank (Pomerol and St. Emilion), where it is blended with Cabernet Franc. It is a key component of the five-grape Bordeaux blend on the left bank, with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot.

United States—California leads, most notably with wines from Napa and Sonoma. Washington state also does well with Merlot.

Italy—Merlot is often used in “Super Tuscan” blends, where winemakers create magic from their vineyards with different varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese.

Chile – The Central Valley, Colchagua Valley, and Maule Valley are key areas.

Australia, Argentina, and South Africa are other countries issuing quality Merlots, from the lower-priced spread to Bordeaux blends and 100% varietal offerings.

Merlot is a popular choice for wine blends due to several key characteristics that make it an ideal partner. Its softer tannins and velvety texture provide balance against the more tannic qualities of Cabernet Sauvignon or Sangiovese, among others.

On the palate, Merlot can complement the other varietals with roundness and flavors of plum, berries, and hints of chocolate and vanilla. It adapts to many terroirs, climates, and soils and is heartier and easier to grow and produce than thinner-skinned varietals, such as Pinot Noir.

As with other classic varietals, Merlot and the blends improve with oak aging, which adds further nuances to the aroma, bouquet, and tastes. Winemakers develop their own barrel aging regimen to suit their terroir and style of the wine they want to perpetuate (e.g., all new oak; 50% new and 50% one-year-old; one-third new, one-third a year old, one-third two years old, or in larger barriques with little oak influences).

Here are the Master award winners in Pounds Sterling (USD 1.30): 100% oaked Merlot wines: £30-£50, Vignamaggio 2016 Merlot di Santa Maria. Tuscany, Italy; £50-£70, Freemark Abbey 2019 Merlot Napa Valley, USA; £70-£100, Black Stallion Estate Winery 2020 Limited Release Merlot, Napa Valley; £100+, Mt. Brave 2019 Merlot, Napa Valley.

Gold: £10-£15, Wakefield Taylors Wines 2022 Estate Merlot, Clare Valley, Australia.

Gold: £15-£20, Abadal Cinc 2019 Catalonia, Spain; Yedi Bilgeler, Bias Priene Merlot Izmir, Turkey; Durbanville Hills, Collectors Reserve 2021 The Lighthouse, Western Cape, South Africa; Fleur du Cap Unfiltered 2020 Western Cape.

Gold: £20-£30, Domaine Fangsi Kaiyun 2019 Single Vineyard Merlot, Ningxia, China; Arínzano 2019 Merlot Agricultura Biológica, Navarra, Spain; Petra 2021 Quercegobbe, Tuscany, Italy; Barlow Vineyards 2021 Merlot, Napa Valley.

Gold: £50-£70, Hoosegg by Philip Shaw 2019 Mountain Dragon, New South Wales, Australia; Chamlija Asticus Mons 2020 Strandja Mountains, Turkey.

Oaked Merlot Blends

Gold: £20-£30, Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve 2021 Merlot, Sonoma County, USA.

Gold: 30-£50,  Trefethen Family Vineyards Estate 2021 Merlot, California; Château La Fleur de Boüard 2020 Bordeaux, France.