Petite Sirah, despite its somewhat misleading name, is anything but small.

The grape originated in France in the mid-19th century, created by botanist François Durif, who crossed Syrah with an obscure varietal called Peloursin. Durif’s resistance to downy mildew won it early praise, and the small, thick-skinned berries produced deeply colored, tannic wines with remarkable aging potential.

The grape was introduced to California in the 1880s by French viticulturist Charles McIver, although its exact origins remained a mystery for decades. Most California winemakers adopted the name Petite Sirah, not to be confused with Syrah (also known as Shiraz). It wasn’t until DNA testing in the 1990s that researchers discovered Petite Sirah is Durif.

The grape thrives in warm, sunny climates where it can ripen fully. California accounts for approximately 90% of the global grape production, with a range of wine quality ranging  from values under $20 to collectibles over $50. Prime areas are the Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, Mendocino, and Lodi. Outside California, it has found success in Australia, Israel, and South America, although the quantities remain comparatively small, including in France, where it originated but fell out of favor. It is also used to add color, tannins, and structure to red wine blends.

Some 40 members of the Carmel Valley Wine Club, San Diego, enjoyed eight Petite Sirah wines in a recent blind tasting, with six from California, one from Baja California (Mexico) and one from Israel. The prices ranged from $27 to $90 and alcohol levels from 13.5% to 15.5%.

Caymus-Suisin Grand Durif

Even in blind tastings, Petite Sirah wines are recognizable by their inky, nearly opaque color and assertive tannins. High alcohol levels can create big tears on the glass. On the nose, you can find a medley of dark fruits, including blackberry, blueberry, and plum, with hints of red fruit in some wines. The other markers include secondary notes of black pepper, licorice, espresso, and sometimes a floral touch of violet, along with earthy undertones of leather and tobacco in more mature wines. On the palate, Petite Sirah tends to be bold, structured, and mouth-coating, with high tannin and acidity levels and a long black fruit finish that makes it suitable for cellaring. As the higher-quality wines age, the tannins soften, integrating with the fruit and acids to create a balanced wine, not unlike the best well-aged Zinfandels, Syrah-based Rhones from France, or Shiraz from Australia.

Petite Sirah’s robust structure makes it an excellent companion for bold dishes, such as grilled or smoked meat, barbecued ribs, lamb chops, or steaks. It also pairs well with hearty stews and game meats, and aged cheeses, especially tangy blue cheese or sharp cheddar. It can overwhelm lighter dishes, so be judicious in your pairings, even if it is one of your favorite varietals.

The wines are listed in order of tasting. My favorite and the group’s by a clear margin, the Caymus-Suisun, uses the classic Durif name.

  • Judean Hills, Israel, 2021 Shiloh Petite Sirah Secret Reserve ($47). Mid-dark garnet, viscous (15.5 alc.); red fruit, cranberry, cocoa; mid+ acids; mid-full tannins; mid+ depth; long hot, tart, berry and wood finish. 16-16.5/90-91.
  • Sonoma, Calif. 2021 Ridge Petite Sirah Lytton Estate ($42). Dark garnet, viscous (14.1 alc.); ripe grape, red and black fruit, herbal nose; mid acids; mid tannins; mid-depth; short red fruit finish. 15.5/89.
  • Yolo, Calif., 2022 Jeff Runquist Petite Sirah Salman Vineyard ($27). Light-mid garnet, viscous (15.0 alc.); ripe grape, smoky, saline, sour cherry nose; low-mid acids; low-mid tannins; earthy, chalky, semi tart, hot finish. 16/90.
  • Napa 2022 Turley Petite Syrah Hayne Vineyard ($90). Dark purple, viscous (15.3 alc.); ripe grape, smoky, red and black fruit, raspberry, plum nose; low-mid acids; soft tannins; balanced mid-deep red fruit finish. 16.5/91.
  • Solano, Calif., 2021 Caymus-Suisun Grand Durif ($49). Dark, viscous (15.2 alc.); ripe grape, prune, plum, herbs, lavender nose; low-mid acids; mid-soft tannins; long balanced berry finish. 17/92.
  • Mexico blend (50% Petite Sirah, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon) 2020 Bruma Ocho Reserva Mezcla ($61). Mid ruby, rim variation (versus deeper-colored PS wines; 13.7 alc.); red fruit, saline, smoky, ripe plum nose; low acids; soft tannins; round, ripe, balanced slightly tart finish. 16.5/91.
  • San Diego, Calif., 2023 La Jolla Winery Petite Sirah ($30). Mid-dark garnet, low viscosity (13.5 alc.); tart cherry, wood, earthy nose; low-mid acids; mid tannins; nice structure; long tart cherry finish. 16/90.
  • Paso Robles, Calif., 2021 Aaron Petite Sirah ($45). Darkest garnet, viscous (14.9 alc.); ripe grape, prune, raisiny, black fruit, woody nose; mid acids; mid+ tannins; good depth; long, balanced, hot black fruit finish. 16.5/91.

Blind Tasting Lineup